July 16th: Festival at Yasukuni Shrine

Stefan and Connor picked me up at the Hotel and we headed over via cab to a big festival at Yasukuni Shrine. We weren't sure what to expect, especially given the controversial nature of the shrine. However, when we arrived, it was a bustling, crowded festival, lit with lanterns, lined with food stalls and filled with people, some even in kimono! I felt like a little kid, all wide eyed, because it was so much to take in.


As we walked along, Connor explained some of the dishes on offer and introduced me to Chu Hi- a sort of shochu (a Japanese liquor much like vodka) cocktail, flavored with lemon and in this case, drunk straight from the can. It was light and not too sweet, but Stefan and Connor had beers. Connor also explained that all the lanterns are from corporate sponsors, which explains the different characters on them. There we are, me with my Chu Hi.


In the center of the four walkways, there were women in Kimono dancing with fans, in perfect unison. It was so pretty to watch. The whole festival had a happy, convivial atmosphere....





...until we got to the war museum. That was interesting and a little unnerving. Outside the museum, they had beautiful lanterns displayed, but inside, it was a strange grouping of items that included a car from the Thai-Burma line. One of the lanterns outside had the old Japanese flag and the new flying side by side. Stefan was quite surprised by this- doing something similar in, say, Germany, would get you arrested.

Still, it couldn't detract from the overall effect of the lanterns, dancers, all the people and my own sense of excitement just to be there!

There was a little pathway lined with small lanterns donated by individuals- mainly women- honoring fallen soldiers of family members lost in various wars. All the Japanese soldiers and civilians lost in war are enshrined here. While this does include nine Class A war criminals, I felt it more as a monument to the countless others who lost their lives during a war, and tried to see it from that perspective, as I presume it was originally intended.



There was also an art contest of painted lanterns, and it made for a nice quiet walk to view them, away from the thronging crowds in the main thoroughfare, and at the end of the day, I have never seen anything like this festival!